Shanghai Restaurant Review: Wu Mian

The Place

It might not seem like the intersection of Shaanxi Nan Lu and Jianguo Lu, needs another noodle joint, but the owners of Wu Mian beg to differ. In contrast to the Shanghainese and Lanzhou-style options available nearby, the focus here is on Taiwan’s greatest hits, namely beef noodle soup and luroufan.

While both the cook and the owner are Shanghainese, the laoban hints at a business partner from Taiwan as the impetus behind opening this type of restaurant.

The Food

You would hope that a Taiwan-style noodle house would serve life-changing beef stock, but that is sadly not the case here. Even though it’s been cooked for four hours, the stock lacks depth and the heady scent of abundant spices that the dish is known for.

The beef and the melt-in-your-mouth tendon combination noodle soup (RMB36) is the way to go, but the standard stewed beef soup noodle (RMB32) tastes as if the protein had been sautéed in butter - an unnecessary step if the stock were more flavorful.

Even though we’re told the noodles are handmade off-site, they’re average at best – evident if you order the tomato and egg dry noodles (RMB28). A much better version can be found for half the price at the Lanzhou lamian stall next door.

Cold dishes are a mixed bag. The cold rice noodles (RMB22) are definitely tasty, but no better than cheaper street side versions. However, Wu Mian’s is healthier thanks to the additions of purple cabbage and cherry tomatoes. On the other hand, their spinach in ginger sauce (RMB20) is so sour that it’s nearly inedible.

The biggest surprise is the fantastic luroufan, aka braised pork on rice. Their rendition of Taiwan’s most beloved dish has all the flavors missing from their beef stock. We recommend paying an extra three kuai for the fatty, more flavorful cut (RMB35) of stewed meat, and the addition of kimchi, bok choy, cucumber and boiled egg add variety to its richness.

Food Verdict: 1.5/3

The Vibe

With efficient service and a modern look, this is a solid location for a simple meal. Although Wu Mian’s compact interiors are so clean they border on sterile, they will likely maintain a steady stream of noodle enthusiasts concerned with (and willing to pay for) cleanliness over authenticity. 

Vibe Verdict: 1.5/2

Total Verdict: 3/5

Price: RMB30-50 per person
Who’s going: people who live/work nearby
Good for: solo meals, quick lunches, luroufan

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